The Mango Lassie

This is a very momentous blog post because it is the first one to feature Percy, the dog who Empanada Boy and I adopted in May. Mango Mama was visiting New York last weekend, and we had planned to take Percy on a hike in New Jersey. But we were in need of some breakfast before we set off from (the fittingly named) Uncle Second Breakfast’s house in Williamsburg. He didn’t have any food in the house because my aunt and cousin were away. When it comes to Williamsburg restaurants, Uncle SB’s expertise is an hyperlocal, meaning it extends to the three blocks surrounding his house on each side and not much further beyond that. Luckily, he lives in a neighborhood packed with worthy restaurants. SB settled a place just a few blocks away called Lodge. It’s a spacious restaurant with windows that open wide onto outdoor seating. Inside, it’s decorated in the fake hunting-lodge style with wood paneled walls, taxidermied animal heads and other rustic accoutrements. We took a seat outside so Percy could remain close at hand.

As it turned out, we only ordered two distinct dishes between the four of us. Mango Mama, EB and SB ordered a breakfast sandwich made on a brioche bun, stuffed with a fried egg, pesto, bacon and a fried green heirloom tomato. The sandwich was commendable for its seasonal ingredients and its resulting fresh, bright flavors. All agreed, however, that an heirloom tomato should never be fried. The breading dries out the slice, masking the beautiful sweet-tart flavors of a tomato in season. This was particularly a problem in this context because the sandwich would have benefitted from the moisture of the tomato juices. Tasty, crispy home fries came alongside the dish, making about as substantial a breakfast I’ve had in recent years for a price as low as $8.

Though tempted by the sandwich, I decided to change things up by ordering a dish of corn cakes topped with poached eggs, crispy bits of Mexican chorizo, chopped tomatoes, pureed avocados and crumbled goat cheese. The egg yolks drizzled over the corn cakes when I broke them open, lubricating the whole dish. The chorizo added a nice kick of spice, but I think a bit of spicy salsa or hot sauce may have been the only thing missing.

Lodge also has a General Store next door, which sells a variety of gourmet items and sandwiches for takeout. It looks like a low-key, high-quality spot, which is pretty much what I found its sister restaurant to be. As for Percy, he managed to get his leash tangled up in the chairs and barked at a particular server who somehow rubbed him the wrong way, but he definitely got a few morsels that dropped on the ground. All in all, it was a pretty good place for his first restaurant visit.

Lodge
318 Grand St.
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718.486.9400