The Mango Lassie

Since moving to New York, I’ve had a problem finding good restaurants to visit. I know it seems crazy. New York is the restaurant capital of the world, and there are excellent, inexpensive ethnic spots in every neighborhood in the city. The problem is that I don’t know about them. I have read the New York Times Dining section religiously for years, but most of the places I read about are the Daniels, Per Ses and Del Postos, the lavish, high-end places that I could never afford to visit. The restaurants that aren’t as upscale are usually incredibly popular, making it almost impossible to get a table when we decide we’d like to go out for dinner at the last minute. Kefi, chef Michael Psilakis’ casual Greek joint, (formerly known as Onera) is one of the places I read a lot about before moving here. It got good reviews and was lauded for reviving traditional Greek cuisine with fresh, lively ingredients and affordable prices. I somehow never thought I would be able to get a table, but Kefi doesn’t take reservations. (It is about to move to a new Upper West Side location, which will accept them.) Honey Roasted Peanut and I met there at 7 pm on a weeknight to beat the rush.

It’s evident at first glance that the best deals on the menu are in the mezze section. These are the stars of Greek cuisine, and they range in price from $6 to $10. One per person is enough for a light meal. Three shared between two people is plenty. Fulfilling our solemn duty to try more things, HR Peanut and I ordered four. One was the tomato-rusk salad (pictured on top), rusks being crunchy crouton-like cubes. This was similar to a traditional Greek salad, with red onion, olives, feta and oregano. The dressing was a simple vinaigrette, but a little milder than the kind served in your average Greek diner. Rusks gave the dish great texture, and the fresh tomato, cucumber and onion flavors melded nicely. Feta took center stage in another mezze dish where the cheese warmed to softness and served with tomatoes, capers, anchovies, peppers and olives. We used triangles of pita bread to the scoop salty, fishy mixture into our mouths. The bottom line with these dishes: simple and traditional done well wins diners every time.

Our next round of dishes were a bit more substantial. One was a plate of perfectly grilled octopus with a nicely blackened exterior and a tender core. It was dressed with lemon and parsley and paired with plump garbanzo beans. Our final dish was sheep’s milk ravioli with brown butter and sage. I have loved the combination of brown butter and sage since I first tried the gnocchi at A Tavola in Chicago. After all, what’s not to like about toasty brown butter and lightly crisped and salted sage? The ravioli themselves were also tasty, with al dente casings that enclosed a mild, but elegant cheese. The only downside to this dish was the crispy fried onion pieces that had been scattered on top. HR Peanut and I both agreed that these took the dish down a notch, evoking sports bar onion rings, rather than the rugged hills of Greece.

Despite a few minor drawbacks, the meal at Kefi was worthwhile. The food wasn’t quite as good as the dishes I regularly enjoyed while traveling along the coast of Greece, but it’s rare to find food in exile that tastes as good as in its home country. Kefi’s simplicity and affordability demonstrate the chef’s understanding of what makes Greek mezze fare so enjoyable. Now all he needs is that Ionian Sea breeze.

Kefi
222 W. 79th St
New York, NY 10024
212.873.0200