Doughnuts: A Showdown
Madison, Wisconsin was the place to be this weekend, or so Empanada Boy and I determined. We decided to drive up after hearing that Drumstix and Popcorn Princess were having a shower for the upcoming arrival of their first child, Herbert. We also took the opportunity to catch up with EB’s friends Po’boy and Milkmaid.
After a few beers, Po’boy commented that he’d read my previous entry on Portland’s Voodoo Doughnuts. He asked if I’d tried the doughnuts (donuts?) at the Greenbush Bakery in Madison. Not only had I not tried them, but EB, the true Madisonian, hadn’t tried them either. Despite our dinner and beers, Po’boy insisted we couldn’t end the night without trying some doughnuts. It was to be “Portland vs. Madison: a doughnut showdown.”
Like Voodoo Doughnuts, the Greenbush Bakery is open late— until 3 a.m. on Saturday nights. Unlike Voodoo, there was no crowd of drunk hipsters waiting on line outside. In fact, we were the only ones there. One thing that automatically makes the Greenbush unique is the fact that it’s kosher. This fact is advertised all over the restaurant. Another major selling point is the fact that all doughnuts are fried in trans fat-free oil.
Milkmaid and I both ordered the traditional glazed cake doughnuts. Milkmaid ordered a sour cream one, and mine was chocolate. Both were quite tasty with a pleasant density and moist interior. Unfortunately, the chocolate had very little chocolate flavor, but the tang of sour cream made both more interesting. These were better than the basic doughnuts I’ve tried at Voodoo.
Po’boy and EB ordered Oreo doughnuts, fittingly made with cream fillings. I found these overly decadent and a little disgusting. EB loved them and pronounced them better than those he’d raved so much about at Voodoo. We also tried a maple-glazed round and an un-doughnut-like apple pie thing.
Both EB and I were partial to the doughnuts at the Greenbush, but EB made a good point. He said he appreciated the creativity, wackiness and sense of humor that has made Voodoo a Portland institution. Greenbush had old-school appeal, but less of the cult status. In general, I tend to agree with EB’s assessment. I don’t really like doughnuts enough to seek them out on a regular basis, but a funky atmosphere goes a long way toward enhancing their appeal. The final assessment: Voodoo wins on vibe, but the Greenbush takes the cake (if you will) on doughnut quality.
Greenbush Bakery
1305 Regent St.
Madison, WI 53715
608.257.1151
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Empanada Boy said,
October 7, 2007 @ 11:53 pm
I can’t believe I had never tried these before! And all this time, they were so close to where I grew up. Come to think of it, it’s probably a good thing I didn’t know about this little doughnut shop growing up in Madison; I probably would have them WAY too often. Especially since it’s right next door to my ol’ favorite from high school Rocky Rococo’s Pizza. Even though the Mango Lassie may roll her eyes, I must declare that the Oreo doughnut was exquisite.
Mango Mama said,
October 8, 2007 @ 1:04 pm
Sorry EB, but the Oreo donut sounds gross!
Frankly, I think most donuts are gross. Even so, I did have one amazing donut experience in New York a few years ago when I visited an apple farm near New Palz with Andra, Danny, Rumi and Mori. There we tasted some absolutely delicious fresh and warm apple cider donuts, naturally served with fresh, hot apple cider. Those donuts were so good, my mouth is still watering just thinking about them.
Oreo donuts – BAH!
Daddy Salmon said,
October 8, 2007 @ 8:23 pm
I generally like doughnuts the first time I taste them. It’s the second or third time that’s a bummer!
Daddy Salmon.