The Mango Lassie

Each day on our way to and from the train stop near our apartment, Empanada Boy and I have passed the same places. There’s a Chinese joint, a liquor store, a bar, an antique shop and a chiropractor’s office. Then comes a bold yellow sign decorated with old-fashioned circus-style writing and a picture of a giant hot dog. It’s Budacki’s Drive-In, a typical Chicago institution specializing in hot dogs, Italian beef, gyros, french fries burgers, meatball sandwiches, milkshakes and anything else that’s somewhat bad for a person. Diners order from a counter and can sit at another counter inside or move outside to picnic tables.

Empanada Boy and I managed to stay away from Budacki’s for more than a year. One day when I couldn’t be home for dinner, EB decided to try it out. His review was unmitigated; he ended up going back a second time later in the same week.

Budacki’s and other places like it are known for their hot dogs. The Chicago-style dog is more than a genre— it’s a religion. Like everywhere else in the city, these are all-beef numbers, locally-made by the Vienna Beef company. The ones at Budacki’s come all dressed up with mustard, pickle spears, tomatoes, relish and onions. The freshness of these accompaniments accentuates the pure, beefy flavor of these tasty dogs. Empanada Boy tried the double hot dog meal during our last visit. (Actually, I should say mylast visit since EB’s been back since.) Thin, crispy french fries come with the all of the meals. Budacki’s somewhat ridiculously advertises these as “pomme frites” on a sign outside.

But EB’s favorite is the Italian beef: thinly sliced layers of beef cooked in a broth with oregano and other spices. It’s served in a crusty roll, which is often soaked in the broth used to reheat the meat. The meat is usually topped with a spicy hot pepper relish called giardinera. Italian beef is a signature Chicago dish and is apparently difficult to find outside the Chicagoland area. According to Wikipedia, Italian beef was typical of the simple, hearty fare being made and eaten by Italian Americans during the early 20th Century. It likely came to be called Italian beef by the non-Italians who started purchasing it from their neighbors. Whatever the real story is, I loved Budacki’s version. In the past I’ve been disappointed to find the beef in these sandwiches dry and a little flavorless. The meat here is tender and still wet with broth. But it’s the spicy giardinera that brings it all to life. EB convinced me to try it with mozzarella. The meat completely overshadowed the mild cheese. If anything, it helped to hold the bread together.

Now that EB and I are clued in to the greatness of Budacki’s, it will be hard for us to stay away. I will try to limit EB to once a week and hopefully wean him down to twice a month. Chicago’s hot dogs and Italian beef didn’t become tradition for no reason; these are the flavors that keep people of all ages and ethnicities coming back for more.

Budacki’s Drive-In
4739 N Damen Ave
Chicago, IL 60625
773.561.1322