Bar-B Right on ‘Cue
As I mentioned last week, I left Portland on the Monday night red eye in order to get back to Chicago for work on Tuesday. Traveling in the middle of the night meant very little sleep. It also meant more time for going out to dinner with my family. Mango Mama was all set to take us out for tapas at the brand new hot spot Toro Bravo, but that was not meant to be. A writeup in a city magazine and a review in The Oregonian meant everyone and their mom was there to give it a try. When we arrived the hostess told us the wait would be an hour. We decided to go looking for something else to eat, and we only ended up going to the end of the block. There we found Russell Street Bar-B-Que, a down-home, but hip, all-out meat haven.
As only a barbecue joint in the Pacific Northwest could do, Russell Street pulls its barbecue styles from all across the South, including Virginia, Texas and North Carolina. There are five different sauces, including three degrees of a Virginia tomato-based option, a Kentucky-style sweet-hot mustard sauce and a spicy North Carolina vinegar. All meat is vegetarian-fed, and all fish is wild. Among the menu options are pork and beef ribs, pulled pork and barbecued wild salmon. And, in a very Portland turn, Russell Street also serves smoked and grilled tofu for the vegetarians and vegans. Needless to say, we stuck to meat.
Daddy Salmon and I tried the Texas-style smoked beef brisket (pictured above) topped with the medium Virginia sauce and with all of the other sauces to sample. The meat was soft, falling apart at the touch of a fork. It was tasty, although it could have been a little bit fattier and more moist. The entrees came with cornbread (so-so) and two sides. I tried mixed sauteed greens and barbecue beans with bits of meat, both of which were excellent. Mango Mama tried a tasty smoked meatloaf made with a mixture of pork and beef. Trader Joanna opted toward the healthier choice of a barbecued chicken breast, but she couldn’t resist the crispy handmade fries. The most impressive dish was Flava Flav’s beef ribs (pictured here). The menu said they would make you feel like Fred Flinstone, and these massive meat-laden bones fit the bill perfectly. The meat was rich and delicious, and Flava Flav did her best to eat as much as she could. She took the rest home along with the bare bones so our dogs Mattie and Athena could enjoy the meal too.
I was more than sated when they all drove me to the airport afterward and waved goodbye. I’ll have to bring Empanada Boy back to Russell Street the next time we’re in Portland.
Russell Street Bar-B-Que
325 NE Russell St.
Portland, OR 97212
503.528.8224





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Flav said,
October 29, 2007 @ 11:41 pm
A week later Faun is still gallivanting around the yard with her bones but she misses ML.
Hamentaschen said,
October 30, 2007 @ 8:19 am
That looks awesome. My favorite bbq that I’ve had out is probably Gates in Kansas City, MO.
Mango Lassie said,
October 30, 2007 @ 9:24 pm
Hmmm. I’ve heard good things and seen a few Food Network specials on Missouri BBQ. What makes the food at Gates so good? What type of meat do they usually use in Missouri?
Mango Mama said,
October 30, 2007 @ 9:31 pm
I am not a BBQ expert at all, but I loved my dinner at the Russell St. BBQ. The ML forgot to mention that they serve several excellent local artisan beers on tap, which truly enhanced our dinner.
FYI – today Flav and I went to lunch at the new hotspot in town, Kenny and Zuke’s deli. The corned beef was amazing, the burger with pastrami was also excellent, the rye bread was by far the best I have had in Portland since Mr. Mosler closed up shop, and the hamburger bun was buttery and delicious. I think they could improve on their pickles, though they are homemade in their kitchen. Flav and I also thought they should put containers of mustard, pickles, and coleslaw on the tables like they do in NY delis. Their coleslaw was good, but they didn’t give enough of it – especially for the prices they were charging. Anyway – the place was packed with 50 somethings’ like me and hipsters and mothers with kids and 70 somethings as well. Plus they are open late!
The ML should really visit there the next time she is here!
Hamentaschen said,
October 31, 2007 @ 1:21 pm
It’s nothing crazy…pork ribs done just right, not too dry, and I really like their spicy bbq sauce. And the red soda. And the fries.
Mango Lassie said,
October 31, 2007 @ 2:28 pm
I would really like to try more authentic BBQ from cities that are famous for making it. I tried Texas-style beef when I was in Austin, but I know most other BBQ traditions are pork-centered. And pork is definitely not one of my areaa of expertise.
Thanks for the tip on Kenny and Zukes, Mango Mama. I’ve been getting Ken’s newsletter with updates on the progress of the deli. Ken’s former restaurant (Ken’s Place) was probably my favorite spot in Portland. I still mourn the loss of the warm calamari salad I always ordered. I’m definitely looking forward to giving Kenny and Zukes a try.
Empanada Boy said,
December 3, 2007 @ 12:18 am
Well, we drove past Russell’s BBQ when we were in Portland last week, but ML didn’t make good on her promise to take me there. But it’s OK because we had plenty of other good food. Anyway it sounds delicious & I hope we make it there eventually.