Comfort Food for Cheeseheads
Empanada Boy and I drove up to Madison after work on July 3. We were planning to ride up to EB’s family home in Eagle River with Tofuti Cutie, Popover and Popcorn Princess the next day. That morning all five of us— plus two dogs— piled into EB’s parents’ old van, which was towing a trailer full of motorcycles and bikes. The first sign of danger to come came when we stopped for gas and the van failed to start up again. We got a jump and were on our way back to switch cars when all the systems in the van began to fail, one by one. The alternator had given way. Tofuti masterfully conducted the car to the side of the road, and we called AAA. While we were waiting, a car miraculously pulled over and out jumped a guy who knew all about fixing cars who said he could get us a new part, install it and have us back on the road in a couple hours. (Only in Wisconsin!!!) Popover decided to take a chance on him. And we opted to pass the time by meeting Rocky Rococo for lunch at The Old Fashioned. (My camera was in the van, so these photos were taken with Empanada Boy’s cell phone camera).
The Old Fashioned gets its name from the brandy-based drink that is typical in Wisconsin’s North Woods. The restaurant’s menu is supposedly shaped around the state’s most traditional food and drink, but it seemed pretty similar to the fare at many of the country’s better gastropubs. I was pleased at the use of seasonal ingredients as in the delicious cold beet soup (pictured above) and in my lovely beet salad with Gorgonzola.
The cheese on my salad was made in Wisconsin, but the most typical Wisconsin dish at our table was probably the grilled cheese sandwich that Rocky and Popover ordered. It came with local cheddar and Swiss cheeses, roasted red pepper and bacon. Cheese was the theme that linked Empanada Boy’s order to the rest of ours. His shaved prime rib sandwich came topped with a thick slice of local aged white cheddar.
The meal was simple but pretty good for what it was. It certainly seems to be the kind of food that would make any Wisconsinite feel at home. And it greatly contributed to putting us all in better spirits after our discouraging morning of delays. Best of all, we got a call from the Good Samaritan mechanic about fifteen minutes after finishing up. He fixed the alternator for a better-than-reasonable fee, and we were on the road again by 2 p.m. That got us to Eagle River in time for dinner and fireworks.
The Old Fashioned
23 N. Pinckney St.
Madison, WI 53703
608.310.4545
Empanada Boy said,
July 10, 2007 @ 11:55 pm
My favorite part of the meal was the cold beet soup, which was no different than the smooth version of borscht as far I could tell. It was so delicious and refreshing on a hot summer day after being stranded on the side of the road for an hour or so. The old-fashioned is connected to and affiliated with, I believe, Harvest, the restaurant next door. Judging from my past visit (which granted was a few years ago), Harvest is one of the most overrated restaurants in Madison and is over-priced for what it is, with prices comparable to fine restaurants in Chicago or New York but nowhere near the creativity or quality of the big city hot spots. It’s interesting that their companion restaurant, The Old Fashioned, with its delicious and hardy meals, would be such a good deal and, in my opinion, noticeably underpriced for what it is. Those who work on the Capitol Square are lucky to have The Old Fashioned at their disposal.