Palace of Mystery (and Vegetarianism)
Every diner has experienced orderer’s envy where you wish you had ordered the same thing as someone else. I have learned to avoid this unlucky condition through a number of strategies, including: Choosing whatever sounds best from on the menu with no regard for health or calories; opting never to order a salad at a place that specializes in burgers or tacos. (Iceberg lettuce with wilted tomatoes and bad dressing is usually the result); and, finally, looking around at what other people who seem to be in the know are eating.
But, despite our best efforts, Empanada Boy and left I our dinner last night with an acute case of ordering envy. We had been eating at Udupi Palace, a vegetarian South Indian restaurant on Devon Ave., Chicago’s Brick Lane. I have only eaten at one other South Indian restaurant, so my inexperience with the cuisine was the first problem. Besides being completely vegetarian, these restaurants tend to specialize in large crepes called dosai and large vegetable pancakes called uthappam, a fact which I learned too late. They also don’t eat naan, the traditional Northern Indian bread, preferring deep-fried poori (pictured above), which reminded me of sopapillas. Unfortunately, there were few Indian families sitting nearby when we first sat down to serve as reliable menu guides. They all came in after it was too late.
Now, on to our rather lackluster meal. EB and I started of with the chili pakoras, which were hot peppers dipped in chickpea flour and deep-fried. The peppers were definitely spicy, but the chickpea flour batter was too thick and bread-like for my taste. I know this is the traditional texture of the flour when it’s fried, but I think it works better with larger items like vegetable pakoras because it spreads out more thinly. The heat of the peppers was also moderated by lively mint and tamarind chutneys.
When he saw his entree, EB immediately regretted having ordered it. The dish was a piece of thin, tortilla-like Indian bread, wrapped around kadai paneer, cubes of Indian cheese cooked with onions and green peppers. It came with a sad garnish of old lettuce and unripe tomatoes, looking like one of those dreaded “health wraps” that so many restaurants have added to their menus. The filling tasted miserably under-spiced and kind of mushy. Quoth EB: “I never should have ordered something called a wrap.”
My selection, an eggplant dish called bhaigan bartha, was a bit more successful. It was rich with plenty of eggplant and curry flavor, but the creaminess of the eggplant and the lack of depth that would have come from meat left me wanting more of a kick. That could have come in the form of spice or acidity, but it seemed sorely lacking in this dish. The basmati rice that we ate it with could have also done with more flavoring from ghee or other spices.
Desserts came to the rescue in a small but significant way. EB and I shared an order of rasmalai, crumbly cottage cheese balls served in condensed milk flavored with rosewater and pistachios. This was refreshing and tasty, although I prefer other versions I’ve tried that had a richer condensed milk and a stronger rosewater flavor. Fittingly, EB and I both enjoyed the mango lassi, my namesake and a drink made with mango pulp and yogurt. It was smooth and creamy without weighing us down.
The meal at Udupi Palace wasn’t what I’d hoped, but I know I ordered the wrong things. I’ll have to go back sometime to give those dosai and uppatham a try. And, of course, to enjoy another mango lassi.
Udupi Palace
2543 W. Devon Ave.
Chicago, IL 60618
773.338.2152
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Empanada Boy said,
April 22, 2007 @ 11:05 pm
I guess that’s many restaurant review require a couple visits. I have a feeling this place could have been a lot better than what we had. Oh well, next time at this place or any other South Indian place we go, we’ll know better.
Critic's Critic said,
August 8, 2008 @ 3:58 pm
I’m puzzled why you didn’t ask one of the servers or the manager for information on what to order. Udupi Palace is authentic and appeals to a native clientele, so your disappointment at the menu items frankly stems from your ignorance. I’m not saying preparation may not have been a factor, but not all Indian food is “spicy,” and some dishes are cooked to a different consistency and texture than you may be used to.
Also, why would you dine at a vegetarian restaurant if you wanted meat? I suspect your review reflects this fact more than you may acknowledge.
Mango Lassie said,
August 10, 2008 @ 8:11 pm
Critic, I think you have misunderstood the spirit of my review. I was in no way trying to suggest that Udupi Palace doesn’t produce delicious food. Rather, I was trying to explain why my meal there wasn’t as good as what I fully expect this restaurant is capable of. I often ask servers for advice when I order, but Updupi is a busy place, and they don’t always have time to go into great detail. The menu is also encyclopedic, leaving many potential options to choose from. Your assumption that I didn’t enjoy the restaurant because it didn’t serve meat is entirely incorrect. I love vegetarian food and have since been to one of the best Indian restaurants I’ve tried, which was entirely vegetarian. I’d suggest you read my thoughts more carefully before you jump to conclusions.
Critic's Critic said,
September 5, 2008 @ 6:57 pm
Whatever. You based your review on your expectation of what something should be rather than what it is. As though you and “Empanada Boy” are culinary experts.
In the future, I’d suggest you eat at places more familiar to and more easily understood by your pallet:
Taco Bell
Olive Garden
TGI Friday’s
Ruby Tuesday’s
Sonic
Dairy Queen
If you can’t stand legitimate criticism of your reviews, don’t blame the messenger. And, for God’s sake, stay out of the kitchen.
Critic's Critic said,
September 5, 2008 @ 7:06 pm
I’d suggest you learn to accept legitimate criticism of a poorly written review. You didn’t ask a single person for input on your menu selection and then said you had a poor experience at the restaurant despite your “best efforts.” In the spirit of your “You’re rubber and I’m glue” line of reasoning, I’d suggest you dine at restaurants where you’re likely to enjoy the caliber of food you’re used to:
Taco Bell
McDonald’s
Wendy’s
Sonic
Mango Lassie said,
September 5, 2008 @ 10:04 pm
I am completely willing to accept your criticism. That’s why I approved your comments and allowed them to appear on my site. It sounds like you need to calm down and take a deep breath about this. You are getting pretty worked up about a review that wasn’t even that bad. I was honest about the food I tried and acknowledged that my experience could have been better if I had ordered different things. I doubt you ask for advice at every restaurant you go to. Sometimes you just order what sounds good, and sometimes your instincts are wrong. Unless you’re perfect, that is. A truly excellent restaurant shouldn’t have mediocre dishes on its menus.
In response to your criticism of my taste, my reviews are based on my personal experience as someone who is knowledgeable about food and cooking. At least the editors of one prominent Chicago magazine seem to think that I am qualified and educated enough to share my opinion with the greater public. I would be interested in your qualifications as a food critic. You seem to be suspiciously upset about my review.
John Khatwani said,
October 1, 2009 @ 11:08 am
Dear Mango Lassie,
I am actually the owner of udupi palace and agree with your comments of my establishment due to the fact that you definitely ordered items that are North indian rather then southern which we specialize in. I would love to have you come back and try some of our specialties. Why dont you email at me johnkhat@yahoo.com and I can help you pick out things to try during your next visit and also provide you with some coupons to make your meal be extemely affordable and I can show you what South Indian food truly is! I own both a north and south indian restaurant and without being biased I prefer south indian food hands down because its more of a comfort food in comparison!
Gino Williams said,
April 22, 2011 @ 9:04 pm
Udupi Palace is one of those restaurants that you have to experience first with another Indian who grew up eating Southern Indian food or someone who has had exposure and can make recommendations. I have enjoyed my visits but had I gone without my Indian friends a few times in advance, I would have been quite non-plussed with the choices I would have made on my own because I am mostly familiar with eating North Indian food. Hope you get (or got) a chance to go back and sample something else from the menu in the meantime.